rec.crafts.woodturning: chainsaw recommendation

chainsaw recommendation

message from Lyn J. Mangiameli on 2000/05/25

My old gas chainsaw has finally died and I'm considering replacing it
with an electric model now that I live in the city. All I need it for
is to cut up wood for turning, usually logs no bigger than 24" in
diameter into nothing any bigger than a Nova 3000 will handle. I have a
14" Delta BS with riser for the finer work. Being new to electrics, I'd
be appreciative of any recommendations as to a good saw to buy in the
approximately 16" bar size.

Appreciatively,
Lyn

John Wiley replied to Lyn J. Mangiameli on 2000/05/25

I have been happy with my McCulloch EM300s (16in bar, 3hp) over the last 7
years. The only thing I don't like with all? electrics is are the (don't
remember the proper term here) 'teeth' on the saw body that anchor the saw
to the log. They are plastic, not metal, and slip.

John

Steven D. Russell replied to John Wiley on 2000/05/25

Hello John,

The "teeth" you refer to are called "Bucking Spikes" and help to keep
the cut straight, as well as offering some protection against unplanned
(upward) movement of the saw during the cut. They can also be used to
"lever" the saw into the cut, insuring a very straight cut. I use this
technique when cutting large crotches (3-4' or more) to preserve as much
of the critical feather figure as possible.

I'm not sure about other electric's, but on my Stihl E220 (appox. $600
US$) both bucking spikes are metal. I keep the edges on these spikes
very sharp at all times. If your saw is equipped with plastic "bucks",
you may be able to replace them with metal versions. Check at your local
chainsaw dealer or repair facility. The smaller petrol versions of the
same brand line may have metal bucks that fit your saw.

As for a recommendation for an electric saw, I would take a look at the
Stihl electric's. My small Stihl (E220) is a professional saw and as
such, is too expensive for most hobby turners. I typically use a 20" bar
on it, although I have also used my Stihl 066's 30" bar on it with great
results.

However, Stihl does make a less expensive electric saw that you may wish
to look at. In my local turning club, I have seen Homelites,
McCullough's or Sears Craftsman brand electric's. Good luck to you and
best wishes in all of your turning endeavours!

Steven D. Russell replied to John Wiley on 2000/05/25

C.L.Osborn replied to Steven D. Russell on 2000/05/26

I have a Stihl model 180 with a 16 inch chain, $350, and it has metal
spikes. It won't stall even through 20" ash, hard maple or oak. I'm very
pleased with it. The Husqvarna electric, ~$250 has less horsepower, but is
also a good electric.

Rex Haslip replied to Lyn J. Mangiameli on 2000/05/26

Hope you have a long cord.

Don't mess with electric, petrols the only way to go, and as for what
makes,,,,,,,,,, wellll

Stihl

ummmmmmmmmmmm stihl

and if you can't buy one, then borrow a ...........stihl

Rex
Auckland
New Zealand ( and yes I have a couple of STIHLs)

Lyn J. Mangiameli <kumay...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:392CBBC8.3C77A65@earthlink.net...

shavings replied to Lyn J. Mangiameli on 2000/05/26

I'd bet the neighborhood punks would not even consider looting your
place if they say you running a nice Stilh 029 w/ a 20" bar!-)

As far as electrics go, just about anything will do (or not do) equaly,
IMO.

Personally I detest them, but if you are living in a highrise in uptown
mahattan and preparing stock in your livingrooom, then I guess they
have thier place.

Bill Noble replied to Lyn J. Mangiameli on 2000/05/26

everyone seems to love sthil, if $$ is no object - but the
chainsaw will cost almost as much as your lathe.

here is my experience
I bought the crafstman electric 16 inch for $89. in one year
I burned out 3 of them - in all cases a gear stripped. in all
cases replaced under warranty. I gave up. the first saw ran
about 15 minutes total, the second one failed out of the box
with a bad switch, but would run if I banged it, it managed
two cuts in black accacia wood and then the gear was bad -
total run time less than 40 seconds. third one workd out of
the box, but failed before completing a single cut - total run
time to failure less than 15 seconds.

so after a few months I still wanted a saw - the same store
had Poulon brand saws - the poulon 16 inch looked identical to
the crafstman - same plastic castings (different case color -
bile green instead of nice black on the crafstman) - the only
differences I could see were two - the crafstman had a
different kind of chain adjuster, and the crafstman had a
rated horsepower of 3.5 versus 3.0 on the poulon. So I
figured that it was probable that poulon made the saw for
crafstman, and moreover that all the parts except the motor
were the same, hence the gear would probably last longer with
the motor it was originally sized for rather than the "better"
more powerful motor.

I have so far run the poulon about 40 minutes, cutting up some
elm wood - it has certainly run longer than the combined total
of all the crafstman ones, with the same user, on equally
tough wood. it does cut a tiny bit slower, but it gets done a
whole lot faster because I don't have to keep driving to the
store after ever cut to get the saw replaced. one measure may
be oil consumption (same automatic oiler on both saws) - on
the first crafstman, the one that ran the longest, I used up
about 1/4 of the oil resivoir before failure. I have refilled
the oil on the poulon 5 times so far and it has not yet
failed.

I think the conclusion is pretty obvious between poulon and
crafstman (the poulon was also $20 cheaper, at $69). Now, is
the Sthil 10 times better to justify a 10 times higher price?
that I don't know, but for my purposes, cuttring up some stuff
maybe once every few months, I couldn't justify a $600 saw.

hope this helps.
"Lyn J. Mangiameli" <kumay...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:392CBBC8.3C77A65@earthlink.net...
replacing it
need it for
24" in
handle. I have a
electrics, I'd
buy in the

Steven D. Russell replied to Bill Noble on 2000/05/27

Hello Bill,

Yes, the Stihl E220 is that much better. However, the $600.00 price
restricts it to pros and lumber mills, who are its principal buyers.
This electric is a bloody brute and sports the same bar and chain as my
Stihl 066 (the second most powerful petrol saw in the Stihl line).

I routinely use the E220 with a 30" bar, try that with any $69.00
electric! I have buried the full 30" bar length in Mesquite,
Pecan-crete, Winged Elm, Bodark and other brutally hard, dense timbers
and it just keeps on cutting. In fact, I have NEVER been able to stop
the chain no matter what I was cutting.

I realize most turners will never purchase this saw because of the cost.
However, a few might. (We have hobby turners in our local turning club
that turn on $5,000 Oneways). I have three Stihl chain saws, (066, 026
and E220) and just love them. However, for me time is money, so I cannot
afford to muss about with poor quality equipment. Some of the chaps in
my local turning club use the low priced electric's and replace them
when they burn up. It works for them. For your situation, the E220 is
overkill because of your infrequent usage and its high cost. If you are
getting good service from your current Poulan, stick with it. :-)

If I turned for a hobby, I would probably not buy a $600.00 electric.
But, then again I drive a Mercedes Benz 500 SEL and I just might! :-)
<VBG> You gotta love those German performance machines! Take care and
all the best to you and yours!

Bill Pounds replied to Lyn J. Mangiameli on 2000/05/25

I think you'll find that the same manufacturers of good gas saws are the
ones who make good electric saws. Stihl, Husky are the leaders for my
money. The other factor is that good electric saws cost as much or more
that the equivalent quality gas saw. Economy is not really a reason to buy
electric, but noise, vibration, weight, pollution, may be.

Archived thread: chainsaw recommendation from the group rec.crafts.woodturning.